I loved the challenge in designing this Captured Snowflake Granny Square. It felt a lot like creating artwork out of a puzzle.
I knew I wanted to attempt capturing a six-sided snowflake in a granny square while I was still creating my African Flower Granny Square Pattern. My previous experience informed the design of this square.
Amazingly, this a 3-in-1 pattern! I was so surprised to discover that there were three different pieces to choose from.
A snowflake. As you can see it is a charming ornament fit for any Christmas tree all on it’s own.
The second surprise was how lovely it looked in the hexagon framework. It makes a standard 10 stitches on a side hexagon and could be used on it’s own.
The third surprise was hard won and mostly for me. I wanted to make a smooth transition to square and frame (rounds 7&8) that would be simple enough to allow the snowflake to remain the celebrity of the piece. I feel I achieved that.
I admit it’s subtle but a lot of ripped out yarn hit the wastebasket before I was satisfied with the framing. In fact, round 7 is why I gave it an intermediate skill level. You’d think it would be the snowflake that was hard, but I think the snowflake itself is easier than it looks.
As always every effort has been made to check and recheck the instructions. If you find anything amiss or just have a question please email. And of course if you enjoy making this pattern please tell me so in the comments section. The free version of the pattern is below. The ad free, deluxe pattern with larger print and lots of helpful photos can be found in my Etsy shop. Enjoy! — Laura
Get the ad-free version in my Etsy shop, with larger print and tutorial photos!
Captured Snowflake Granny Square
Copyright 2017 Laura Hickman
Skill level- intermediate
Square is 7” when completed. If it is larger or smaller, you will need a smaller or larger hook size to achieve a 7” square.
All instructions are given in US terms.
Size G 4.5 mm hook
4 colors of 4 ply worsted weight yarn:
I Love this Cotton – Hobby Lobby – used in the example
B: light grey
C: medium blue
D: light blue
Stitch abbreviations and Terms
Slip stitch – sl st
Chain – ch
Single crochet – sc
Half double crochet – hdc
Double crochet – dc
Long double crochet – long dc
Treble – trbl
Double Treble – dbl trbl
Yarn over – yo
Chain space – ch sp
Chain up – ch up (from the work)
Fill Decrease – fill dec – see special stitches below
Trbl Decrease – trbl dec – see special stitches below
Skip – sk
Slip to join
Picot – see special stitches below
Picot: ch up 3 then slip into the top two loops of the last stitch at top of cluster and yo and draw yarn through the 2 loops and then the through last loop on the hook (picot made).
Note: While there are other ways to make decreases, the two below are the two used in this pattern for the sake of ease, size and shape.
Trbl Decrease (trbl dec) – This decrease is made over two stitches. For the first stitch yo twice for the treble and then slip into the next stitch and draw the yarn through, then bring yarn through 3 loops and then continue making the stitch as normal bringing yarn through two loops and then final two loops. Treble Decrease complete.
Fill Decrease (fill dec) – A fill decrease is made over two stitches. Begin the first stitch (whatever is called for in the pattern ie., a dc or trbl etc.) and begin making the stitch as normal (yarning over and drawing yarn through etc) just to the point where there are just two loops left on the hook and then begin the next stitch as normal ( ie yarning over as needed for stitch type and then pulling yarn through first two loops, but then yo and draw the yarn through all but the last loop, (leaving 2 loops on hook) and then draw yarn through last 2 loops on hook. Decrease complete.
Round 1: Snowflake: Use color A. Make a magic ring and ch up 2 (counts as first hdc), ch 1, * hdc 1, ch 1, repeat from * 4 more times, slip to top of first st (the chain 2).
Round: 2: Sl st 1 into ch sp. In ch 1 space; ch up 5 (first dc and ch 2) and dc 1, skip 1, ch 1. *In next ch space dc 1, ch 2, dc 1, skip 1, ch 1. Repeat from * 4 more time and slip to join in third chain of first chain 5.
Round 3: (Cluster & picot round): sl st into chain 2 space and ch 3 (first dc in cluster) finish making cluster by making 2 more dc. Next, make a picot: ch 3 then slip into the top two loops of the last stitch at top of cluster and draw yarn through the 2 loops and then the through last loop on the hook (picot made). Make a 2nd cluster of 3 dc, skip 2, ch 2. * In next chain 2 make 1 cluster, picot 1, 1 cluster, skip 2, ch 2. Repeat from * four more times and slip to top of first chain 3. Finish off.
Round 4: Sl st to join to the front loop of the 2nd (center top) chain in any 3rd round picot. *Chain 3, skip 3, Make a long double crochet over the ch 2 in round 3 and into the space between double crochets in round two. (Note: Allow the chain 2 in round 3 to be pulled down toward round two as the long crochets are made.) Chain up 3 to make a picot, and in the same space make another long dc. Chain 3 and sl st to the front loop in the second chain in top of picot from previous round. Repeat from *5 times, slipping to join into first picot. Finish off, weave tails. Snowflake complete.
Round 5: Hexagon frame. Use color B. Slip to join around a chain 3 space to the left (right for left-handed) of a round 3 picot. Ch up 3 (first dc) dc 3 more in the same space. *Sc 1 into the front loop in the second chain (top) of next picot (round 4). Dc 4 around the next chain 3 space, skip 1, ch 1 and dc 4 around the next chain 3 space. Repeat from * around until after the final ch 1, slip to top of first stitch. Finish off.
Round 6: Hexagon frame accent: Use color C. Slip to join any single crochet stitch of round 5. Ch up 2 (first sc). Sc in each stitch around, keeping work smooth, and slip to join to first stitch. (10 single crochets per side, 60 total). Finish off. Hexagon complete.
Round 7: Transition to square. Use color D. Prep tip: Prepare for this round by marking the fifth stitch (sc above picot) and the 10th stitch (sc at corner point) around the work before beginning. Please note: All stitches are worked in the back loop of the previous round and entire round should be worked a bit loosely so as to give some ease to the stitches.
Slip to join into back loop of a sc at a corner point (marked 10th stitch) of the hexagon. Chain 4 (same as trbl). *Make 5 Trbl dec over the next 10 stitches. In the next 2 stitches make 1 fill dec using 2 trbls, dbl trbl1, skip 1, and then all in next stitch (a marked 5th stitch), dbl trbl 2, ch 3, trbl 3. Continuing on, trbl 1, make 1 fill dec using 1 trbl and 1 dc. (1st or 3rd corner made.) Hdc 1, in next stitch (a marked 10th stitch) make 2 hdc , then in next stitch hdc 1. Make 1 fill dec using 1 dc and 1 trbl, trbl1, then all in next stitch (a marked 5th stitch) trbl 3, ch 3, dbl trbl 2, skip 1, dbl trbl 1 make a fill dec using 2 trbls. (2nd or 4th corner made.) Trbl 1 into next stitch (a marked 10th stitch). Repeat from * one time. Slip to join to top stitch in first ch 4. Finish off. Stretch slightly from corner to corner to square up the work.
Round 8: Use color C. Please note: There will be 18 dcs on a side and a ch 2. (20 sts total).
Holding work so that a point from the hexagon is at the top of the work, slip to join around the chain 3 at the corner and ch up 3 (as the first dc). Dc 2 more and *ch 2, dc 3. (1st or 3rd corner complete.)Dc 6, skip 1, dc 6 and around ch 3; dc 3, ch 2, dc 3. (2nd or 4th corner made.) Dc 6, skip 1, dc 6**, dc 3. Repeat from * to ** 1 time. Slip to join to top stitch in ch 3. Finish off. Square Complete. Stretch work gently to block squarely with fingers.